Grasshopper Bridge and Other Short Stories by Lani Waller

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Lani Waller’s new book “Grasshopper Bridge” will be published in a joint venture between the Native Fish Society and Wild River Press. For further information contact Lani Waller HERE.


Grasshopper Bridge

At eight in the morning Jim Burnette turned off the morning news, left his study and walked slowly down into his fishing tackle shop which doubled as a garage. He opened the trunk of his car and carefully started his packing. A canvass duffle went in first, stuffed full of clothing and tackle, then a bag of miscellaneous things he might need. Just in case. He paused, looked at the pile of gear and did a quick review. Everything seemed ready including his favorite piece of equipment- an old and weathered handmade wooden rod made from a Chinese bamboo called Tonkin cane.

It took someone over one hundred hours to complete such a rod and they sold for over a thousand dollars each in 1952 . That was a lot of money to a fourteen year old boy, and Burnette bought it at exactly the right time- when he could least afford it, with money saved from his newspaper route.

He looked at the rod, then his fishing clothing. All was good to go, including one of his wife’s scarves folded carefully inside his favorite fishing vest, along with a pocket knife she had given him on their tenth anniversary. She had the knife engraved with his name and he had carried that knife all over the world, in and out of so many places and circumstances he couldn’t remember them all. Both the knife and her scarf were his way of staying connected when he was far from home, a reminder of time and of his life and what he believed it really meant.

The inventory continued and Jim looked next at his boxes of trout flies. He had too many and he knew it, but like most fly fishing addicts, he always thought of flies in the same way most men think of money. You can’t have enough. One box in particular caught his attention and he opened it just to make sure they were all there- well over two hundred grasshopper flies with their angular legs and long buggy wings sticking out in all directions. Some of the flies were simple. Others were crafted with great detail- curling antennae, carefully molded bodies and perfect legs. Some even had large and bulging eyes. “Why in the hell do they need eyes?” Burnette said to himself as he looked at them. “It’s creepy, if you ask me. The goddamn things look like they are looking back at me, like they can see me.” Wonder why I even bought them, he thought. I never use them. He looked at the trunk and nodded. Everything else was OK and ready.

When he shut the trunk lid of his car, Nancy heard the sound and came walking down the spiral staircase and into the garage where Jim was waiting. The two of them stood there for a moment facing one another. She looked at him in the same way she always did when he was leaving. But this was a little different because he knew what she was thinking.

Their doctor had opened Jim’s chest six months ago, and it wasn’t good news. “Nothing we can do, it’s too late” he told Jim in the recovery room. “You’re on borrowed time, Burnette. I’m sorry.” Jim looked back at his physician intently and raised his eyebrows and shrugged his shoulders because he didn’t know what else to do. “I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it,” he told himself.

Nancy’s looked at the car, and all the equipment, and exhaled softly. “You take care of yourself Jim Burnette.” She said. “Don’t worry,” he replied, looking back at her. “I’ll be back in ten days.” “I know,” she replied. “I’ll keep the fire burning.” Burnette kissed her, and touched her waist gently. She smelled sweet and her arms were soft and careful. She paused and smiled again. One of those smiles he couldn’t hide from and when she looked at him like that, she took all the space inside his chest and it felt like nothing else was there.

“Okay,” she said. “Be on time, so I won’t have to come looking for you.” Burnette nodded. “Yes, even if it’s great,” he answered. “I’ll be back on time.” He felt her arms tightening around him, “Just where in the hell has all the time gone?” He asked himself. They had married late and that might have something to do with the fact that it seemed like yesterday in some ways. In all the seasons of their life together, Jim had taken her fishing only once but it was the right time, a warm day in June when the wind was soft in the trees and the bass weren’t biting but she looked beautiful sitting in his boat as if she somehow belonged there. Her eyes were steady and clear.

Moments later as the boat slid quietly inside a warm cove of slender green reeds he asked her. She nodded and smiled. They were married three months later.

“You took the scarf didn’t you?” She asked suddenly, breaking his reverie as he took the car keys out of his pocket. “I know you did because it was missing this morning when I opened up the drawer.” She took his arm and her eyes seemed electrified. “OK, here are the rules. You can’t lose the scarf but you can use it to polish your antique fishing rod. If your really have to.”

Jim smiled and nodded, and felt her fingers slipping through his hand and as he turned away from her and toward the car he considered her response about the scarf and the way her eyes looked. As he turned the ignition key he had a strange feeling but he didn’t know exactly what it was.

As he left the driveway he watched her waving in the mirror. He swallowed carefully and returned her gesture. Usually it wasn’t like this. Old age he thought…maybe that’s what it is. Or my chest.

He drove on the first day stopping twice to fill the gas tank and wolf down a couple of soggy cheeseburgers. At nine that evening he passed the sign saying “Reno 315 miles.” Getting closer now, he thought.

Two days later he finally crossed the Montana border. The mountains along the western border hadn’t changed. Their summits were still carved in solid, unyielding stone with patches of snow holding in the deep cuts and slanting crevices. The dark stands of pine and spruce hadn’t been logged and stood like sentinels along the lower slopes. The valley itself hadn’t changed either, a rich tapestry of moving colors and textures of long yellow grasses, the moving waves of grain, the tattooed bark of cottonwood and the tambourine flutter of their turning leaves blowing in the wind. When he closed his eyes, he could smell the scent of wet hay and sage, the clean Montana air. “The Big Sky,” he said to himself. “Not a bad description. Maybe we should have moved here, he thought. All these rivers. All these trout.”

As he looked out the window he could see and hear the mechanical grind and thrashing blades of the summer harvesting machines and the way they were cutting through the fields. It happened every year at this time. The same thing. Over and over again. When the farmer’s combines came grinding through the tall stalks of yellow grain, immense hordes of grasshoppers would lift almost vertically in a swirling cloud and scatter in the warm summer breeze as they tried to escape.

Burnette smiled. I’ve hit it just right, he thought, for he knew that many of the airborne insects always ended up falling onto the surface of nearby creeks and rivers and as always the trout would be waiting for them with their mouths wide open. Perfect.

At four o’clock in the afternoon he finally left the main highway and took a hard left onto a gravel road. He could see the bridge just ahead and the one lane dirt road which bordered the section of the river he would fish.

Three men were working on the bridge, replacing the support timbers and heavy planking. Burnette waved as he drove carefully across the structure and his tires shook and vibrated as the three workers looked at him with a curious stare. One of them, a tall and lanky older man said something to his younger companion with a deliberate slant of his head and a pointing thumb as the workers stopped and turned toward Burnette.

That’s odd, he thought. “ Maybe it’s my long hair and California plates,” he said to himself. “Maybe that’s what it is. What else could it be?” The men continued to stare for what seemed an unreasonably long time, and then went back to working on the bridge.

Jim looked once more, this time at the vertical timbers of the bridge. They were covered with grasshoppers and tor whatever reason the work wasn’t bothering them. That’s odd, he thought. Maybe they were just blown there. But there was no threshing in the adjacent fields and the air was calm.

He took a drag from his cigarette and thought about quitting as he pushed it down into a full ash tray. Fucking things, he thought. They haven’t helped any. He looked out the window and over the low railing of the bridge. The green pools and silver riffles of the river were winding through the valley like a snake, and as he drove over the bridge he felt it vibrate and tremble. That’s odd, he thought- that the bridge should move that much with just a single car on it.

Ten minutes later, and downstream about a half mile, he looked down at the long strands of green moss undulating in the cold and clear currents below, then a quick and certain movement as a beautifully speckled rainbow trout suddenly curled into the sunlight, and sucked in a large and struggling grasshopper from the surface. A good sign, Burnette thought.

He left the river behind and turned into the driveway in front of the motel office. After the usual salutations and small talk about the weather, the maid service, meals, and a polite “Welcome to Montana” soliloquy, Burnette told the caretaker that he would fish alone and that he wouldn’t need a guide with him. “Just a pick up at dark each day for the ride back to the lodge. I’ll be waiting on the bridge.” The caretaker simply nodded and said, “Yes, that would be best. I was hoping that would be what you wanted.” Burnette nodded, retired to his cabin and unpacked.

The first four days passed quickly and the fishing was good. The grasshoppers made all the difference and the river boiled with rising trout, gorging themselves on the endless parade of drowning insects. Most of the rising fish seemed to like a simple, old fashioned fly called “Joe’s Hopper.” Burnette liked that. To a seventy five year old fisherman who still remembered his youth and the way things were then, the trout’s preference for a fly made up that long ago seemed proof that perhaps some of the things he had learned when he was a boy were still relevant. But I wonder just who in the hell Joe really was? He thought. No one seemed to know. Then or now.

Then, five days later- the last day of his fishing- it happened. An easy, late afternoon cast, one almost thoughtless in its execution, hit a dark seam of current only inches from an overhanging dark clay bank. When the rise came, it did so in an almost invisible whirlpool in the current, as the trout sucked in the floating Joes Hopper. Jim raised the wooden rod tip to set the hook and the line lifted in a silver spray of light, then tightened and stopped.

Burnette looked at the curving little rod. There was no movement, no signal, just the river currents pushing and vibrating against the line and leader. After several seconds passed, the thought crossed his mind that the fish had taken the fake hopper, expelled it and in the process the hook had snagged on something. Not this time. “Good work Joe” he said out loud. “Good work.” As he watched, the line moved slowly from the edge of the river to the center of the pool and then stopped. Now what? Burnette thought, as he carefully moved the rod from side to side. The answer was immediate and the largest Brown trout he had ever seen suddenly rolled to the surface, like an alligator, then turned around and ran directly downstream with a force Jim could not stop.

Forty minutes later the two of them, still connected, each alive and breathing in an atmosphere which would drown the other, stopped, stood their ground and pulled against one another. As hard as they could. As the taut line held in the current Burnette relaxed, opened up and let it all come in again. Maybe it didn’t matter what time it was. Maybe it didn’t matter what he had in his chest. Not anymore. And it didn’t matter how old he was. Not right now. He was fifteen years old again, transformed by the water and the forests and mountains all around him and there he was, still a living part of everything and still connected to all of it. “That’s the best of it,” he said to himself, looking at his line suspended in the cooling Montana air. “That’s what I’ve always loved the most. “

As that thought receded, he felt a stab of sudden pain in his left wrist. It was beginning to swell, probably broken or badly sprained by the fall he had taken only moments ago. To hell with it, he thought. My right is still OK. The three thousand dollar bamboo rod had splintered as well, probably beyond repair. “Shit,” he said out loud, cursing his bad luck. “Shit.”

He looked quickly at the broken piece of equipment. It had always been more than just a fishing rod. It was also something else, pointing to the choices he had made in his choice of a career, and the way he wanted to live. And through all those years, most of what fishing with that rod hadn’t fixed, explained, or helped, Nancy had.

But now in this moment, it seemed miraculous that the fish could still be on, given the half mile journey downriver and the fact that Jim had fallen in, and as he stood there and felt the tremor still alive in the line, he wondered just how much longer a thirteen pound Montana trout could last. When the fish turned and ran downstream again, Jim realized he was surrounded by impossibly high clay banks on both sides of the river. “Fuck it” he cursed again, “I’ll swim for it, this could be the last one I ever get.” As he tried to keep up with his fish, paddling with a bad arm and the other clenched around the cork handle of his rod he wondered what Nancy was doing at this particular moment. Maybe watching TV, he thought as the cold water gathered around his throat and he went floating downstream still alive and chasing his dream at seventy five, and the largest trout he had ever hooked.

Ten minutes later, and a hundred yards downstream, the alligator trout decided to stop again. As Burnette stood up and waded carefully toward it, he looked up at the darkening Montana sky and he knew that the truck from the lodge was probably on its way and that he was running out of time, so he told the trout that he just wanted to look at it- just for a moment- and that he would release it and that it really wouldn’t be any worse for this temporary encounter with a human being. For a moment nothing happened and Jim smiled, and considered the possibility that perhaps the trout was thinking about it. Then, without hesitation the immense fish answered and bolted back downstream again in a powerful run and Jim Burnette was out of tricks, unable to go any further. The wooden rod collapsed completely as the line broke. It was over.

He looked at the fractured and splintered wooden rod, the silver ferrules which joined it together, the dark and sweaty cork handle and his name carefully inscribed in black ink. He couldn’t count all the trout which had yielded to its pressure over the past forty years. “Well over a thousand” he said out loud, and he was right. His jaw tightened. That should be enough for anyone, he thought. Even me.

He gazed once again at the shoreline and the grass bending in the wind. He could see the river rushing over its polished stone and gravel bed. He could see the sun burning down upon the surface of the stream in a rainbow blaze of many colors. And inside that moment he could feel himself still alive inside his soaked shirt, still solid and strong, the tension in his shoulders, and the way his heart was beating. He could feel the earth itself beneath his feet and Jim believed it knew he was still there, and still standing where he wanted to be. Where he was supposed to be when he wasn’t with Nancy.

He touched his side and could feel his pocket knife inside his shirt, still wrapped inside her silken scarf and he looked up into the growing darkness as the river ran around him and the life he had chosen. His eyes scanned the distant horizon, the black silhouette of the forests and the winding river in front of him. He looked at his watch, and then up at the sky. The first stars had appeared. I have to quit now, he thought. It’s time to leave. The truck will be waiting.

When he reached the pick up point he could see the lights of the vehicle dancing up and down in the darkness still about a mile away. He stopped where he was supposed to and as he held his swollen wrist and waited, he heard a cracking sound somewhere up ahead, as if a branch was breaking in the night. It isn’t a bear or a deer, he thought. They don’t sound like that.

Then two more sharp points of sound, one after another, each steady and careful, rising in the night and when he looked, Nancy was somehow there, coming out of the trees and standing in the road on the other side of the wooden bridge. She was looking at him in a strange way, with her head tilted to one side and Jim could see the lines in her face and her bright eyes burning in the dark.

The truck appeared next and Burnette wasn’t sure if the driver could see
Nancy. Jim froze in place, terrified and unable to move, as the vehicle drew near. And then, his question was answered. He knew then what it was.

“Now fucking what?” he asked himself. “What comes next?” Nancy looked at Jim, then the driver briefly as she crossed the bridge and came up to her husband of thirty five years. He was shaking as he tried to speak but no words came, and as he looked into the light in her eyes, he knew then what it was and that it wouldn’t be much longer. He tried to reach out and put his arms around her, but his hands wouldn’t move. His mouth was dry and his chest was burning.

“I didn’t know what else to do,” she whispered as she looked back at him and put her arms around his neck. “I wasn’t sure what part of the river you would be fishing on and I wasn’t sure just where you would lose the trout, so I was lucky to find you.” She put her hands on his chest. “Oh, Jim” she said. “I’m here. I’m really here. This isn’t a dream. This is really happening.” He could feel her fingers pressing against him, and the failing rhythm of his heart. How could this be? Jim thought. It couldn’t be, but somehow it was, springing from an ancient place in the human heart and mind, a place which emerges during the final moments of ordinary life, a temporary bridge between life and death. The strangest thing was that Jim always had a place in him that didn’t believe he would ever die. That always happened to someone else on the evening news or in the movies and magazines. Or someone else he knew. He had always ignored all of that like most men do, and he lived as if it was never going to happen to him and perhaps that was the best way to live. He didn’t know.

He drew his breath in sharply and fell to the ground, as the driver jumped out of the truck and knelt over Burnette to feel his pulse. “You just go on,” Nancy whispered, as she held Jim’s head in her lap. “Do what you have to do and don’t worry, Honey. I’ll find you again. I promise. I will find you.”

Nancy stood back as the driver picked Jim up and put him in the front seat of the truck. As driver pushed the rusted metal door closed, Burnette thought it sounded harmonic, with a far away squeaking noise not unlike the notes of a musical instrument, but one he had never heard before.

The driver released the parking brake, and stepped on the accelerator as Nancy stood there in the road, growing smaller, crying and waving in the rear view mirror. As the truck crossed the bridge. Burnette could see the grasshoppers on the bridge turn and look at him, as he passed by them.Seconds later the driver was gone, the truck no longer existed and the river was no longer there.

Only Nancy remained, and as Jim looked at her for the last time, she returned his gaze. Her eyes were like they always had been, unwavering, steady and clear, still shining in the gathering darkness, still looking at him.That was all that mattered. That, and the promise she had made. The rest could go to hell.

The What You Must Know and Must Have: New Zealand List

The Essential Perspective and Choice of Tackle

There are places in the world which have more trout. There are places which have bigger trout, and there are places which have beautiful lakes, creeks and rivers, but no place I have seen combines these features with the stunning impact that New Zealand does. When was the last time you saw four and five pound alive and healthy in streams you could almost jump across and so shallow, their backs stuck out of the riffles as they charged your dry fly or Wooly-Bugger like a shark after mullet?

And- in truth New Zealand trout fishing is at times, both easy, and difficult, depending on your abilities, weather, the mood of the trout, and whether or not they are feeding, and whether they are browns or rainbows. The brown trout are usually tough and challenging- and rewarding. This has nothing to do with anything other than the temperament of browns. They are always tougher than rainbows. It is possible to have six to eight fish days on the browns, and you can go all day and not get one. The most difficult fishing for browns comes when you choose to stalk large fish only.

There are fewer of those around and they are large for a reason. The North Island fishing, which is mostly about rainbows, by contrast is usually easy, for the simple reason that rainbows are a lot easier to catch. Normal catch rates on the north island usually range from three to six fish,per angler, per day. Here again, it is toughest if you focus only on large trophy fish of eight to twelve pounds.

Casting and Presentation

Most stream fishing is done by wading and casting upstream. The fly is then “dead-drifted” over the back of the fish. NOTE: you do not have to be a genuinely expert caster as you usually get several chances on each fish. It is mostly about accuracy and it helps if you can cast twenty feet of line and at that distance, put the fly close to a dinner plate sized target. If you can also do this on your knees, or when you have a tree limb in front or behind you, or when it is breezy, so much the better. No one gets it right all the time and you will get some easy shots and some not so easy, each and every day.

There is good wet fly fishing “on the swing” in the north islands for both browns and rainbows, especially on the Tongariro River. Sink tips or shooting tapers are good for this.

Tackle and Equipment

This is subjective. In other words if you ask three experienced fisherman which rod they prefer for New Zealand, you will get five answers because two of them won’t be able to make up their minds, and because there’s lots of good stuff to choose from. Here’s my answer: For most of my fishing I like a 9’ rod, recommended for a # 6 line, and I combine it with a seven weight forward taper.

Here’s why: Sometimes it can be windy and I may be casting two flies on the same leader. In addition, the leaders tend to be long, from 12-18 feet. As far as I am concerned, fishing and casting like this is tougher with a short, light rod in sizes four or five. And don’t worry- those three to ten pound trout put a very decent bend in a six-weight rod.

For this kind of fishing the SAGE 691-VXP, or the SAGE 691-4 ONE are hard to beat. The larger and longer rods are also handy on some of the larger rivers, and lakes- The Tongariro River on the North Island, and “Lake O” for example - and some anglers like a nine to ten foot rod for a # 8 line, to fish Wooly Buggers etc. “on the swing,” in rivers, or “on the retrieve” in lakes for really big fish to ten pounds or more...or how about a twelve to fourteen pound monster now and then? Or more? And I’m not kidding.

Tongariro Lodge

my favorite New Zealand destination- has an eighteen pound female rainbow mounted in the dining room and you couldn’t tell her from a Babine River steelhead. Anglers fishing smaller lakes and streams with “less complicated” terminal tackle will love the SAGE CIRCA series. They are extremely light and responsive and a four pound trout feels very good on them. If you pay close attention you can feel the trout breathing in the cork handle. (Well, almost.)

Reels and Lines

Bring two reels with a weight forward floating line on each reel. Do not bring brightly colored fly lines. If your favorite lien looks too bright, dye it with a little fabric dye, such as “Rit.” Overly bright lines can spook fish while you are waving the line back and forth in the air. Reels do not need a drag but a smooth reel is necessary, as the leader tippets are small and the fish are big.

I have been using RIO lines for a long time now- well before Jim Vincent sold to SAGE and they’ve never been wrong- and though I have yet to use them, the RIO “Gold” trout lines seem made for New Zealand trout waters. Rio claims the Gold line loads quickly and smoothly, even on short casts, with relatively long leaders and two flies- and I believe the advertisements If you want to fish on one of the lakes you would be well advised to bring a sinking line. Wet tip lines are good in # 2 density tips. 25’ to 30’ Shooting tapers in densities # 1 and # 2 backed with shooting line are very handy for lake fishing with Wooly Buggers etc. If you want to do this, bring a third reel, set up with either a sink tip or sinking shooting taper.

I have used RIO shooting tapers and they are excellent. I prefer this kind of line for my lake fishing for several simple reasons (1) the longer the cast your make on a lake, the longer your retrieve. (2) The longer your retrieve, the more water you cover. (3) The more water you cover, the more trout will see your fly and then....and last but not least- shooting tapers come indifferent densities (sink rates) and give you the ability to fish at different levels and that can be critical.

Leaders and tippets

Bring at least a dozen tapered leaders, approximately 12 feet in length and tapered to 5X (approx 4 lbs) Bring two spools of tippet: one of 4X and one of 5x. Most of the time you won’t use your own leaders or tippets, but have a few with you in case your guide is up a tree spotting for you, and you have to tie a new one on, or if you decide to go it alone and give the lock-jawed ten pounder a few more shots while your partner and guide go on to the next pool.

Flies

Bring a small assortment of dry flies and nymphs and a few Wooly Buggers. One dozen dries and one dozen nymphs and wets are enough. Best dries are Adams, Humpies and Royal Wulffs in size 14, and cicada patterns in sizes 8 and 10. Best nymphs are caddis and may fly nymphs in sizes 14-18. Bead head nymphs in sizes ten to sixteen are a NZ standard. Weighted Black or Wooly Buggers in sizes #6 and # 8 are good for lakes. You will keep these in your shirt pocket and will only use them when the guide is spotting for you and you have to change flies after a refusal or if you lose your fly in a tree limb….or if you simply want to use one of your flies. In every other circumstance the guide will normally use his flies only.

Don’t take it personally. They live there, and fish over one hundred days a year. They know what is best and they have it with them.

Waders and Wading/Walking staff

Bring your favorite lightweight gore tex waders and felt soled shoes that fit correctly. You will not do much deep (waist high) wading, but we do walk our butts off at times with multiple stream crossings and a good staff is a necessity. Most of the time I prefer wading wet but mornings can be cool at times, and lightweight waders are good for that, or if the day stays cool and cloudy.

“Kiwi Waders”

These are nothing more or less than a pair of dark colored polypropylene long johns and a dark pair of quick drying shorts worn over the long johns. You wear your regular felt soled wading boots with this outfit and it is the easiest way to wade and walk. This is the New Zealand favorite and it is the best except when air and water temps are cool.

Clothing and Miscellaneous Must Haves

Camp and lodge wear is informal- shorts, Levis, tee shirts etc. No coats and ties are needed because no one dresses up. For fishing bring a dark colored, light weight long sleeved fishing shirt with good front pockets for your small box of flies, a few leaders and tippet, and extra pair of glasses, handkerchief, any medications and some bug spray. Fishing vests are optional, but some anglers like them. Take yours if you like it. In addition, bring a lightweight pull-over fleece “sweater” for mornings when it might be cool for a couple of hours, a rain jacket, hat with a brim, and Polaroid glasses so you have a chance of seeing what the guide sees. I prefer rain jackets a bit longer than the typical “shorties,” because the shorties tend to concentrate cold water around your kidneys and you get cold even in mild temperatures. No matter the style, always use Gore Tex, or any suitable breathable fabric as you do perspire when walking even if it is cool and rainy.

Miscellaneous

  • Fanny pack or small daypack if you don’t wear a fishing vest, as you will need a place to store your rain jacket and a lightweight pull over etc.
  • Camera and film
  • Line cleaner
  • Cash, credit cards or checks. They take all three.
  • Proof of citizenship. This means passports

Bugs

The bugs can carry you off in the south island when the sun comes out after shower and if the air is calm. So it can be a problem at times. Use your bug spray, stay calm and don’t scratch any bites. That only makes them worse.

Guides and strategies

New Zealand guides are superb, gracious and patient companions who have forgotten more about this kind of angling than most of us ever learn. Usually there are two anglers per guide and the two fishermen take turns fishing the pool encountered on the day’s hike upstream. Normally, guides prefer to stay with the same anglers throughout the trip, as they need to know not only your preferences and strengths, but your weaknesses as well. This kind of familiarity saves wasted time and effort and allows the guide to choose the kind of opportunities you like the most - including the kind of water you prefer to fish, and any other specifics you like or dislike. Remember, they are your partners and they want to maximize your successes. It’s good for your fishing and it’s good for their business.

Driving and Flying

Most of the time we drive to the rivers. Most are privately owned and there will be no competition or other angling pressure on them. We also take helicopter fly-outs if the backcountry rivers are fishing well and flying conditions are good. We will decide that once we are there. Fly outs are expensive- around $600 US per person or more, per day, so careful planning makes sense.